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Article: INSPIRING STORIES OF THE PIONEERS & DESIGNERS OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY

INSPIRING STORIES OF THE PIONEERS & DESIGNERS OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY

INSPIRING STORIES OF THE PIONEERS & DESIGNERS OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY

Read our stories here of the most inspiring fashion pioneers and designers of the fashion industry  e.g. Zandra Rhodes, Cocoa Channel, Vivienne Westwood, Zandra Rhodes, Donatella Versace, Stella McCartney, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Christian Louboutin, Valentino, Marc Jacobs, Alexandra McQueen, Ralph Lauren and MANY MORE!

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ZANDRA RHODES

Known for her fabulously bold prints, the iconic British designer, Dame Zandra Rhodes, launched her eponymous fashion brand 56 years ago.

Nicknamed ‘The Princess of Punk’, Rhodes burst onto the fashion scene in the late 1960s and continues to work from her studio in London. Rhodes began as a printed textile designer and is renowned for perfecting the art-of-print as an intrinsic influence on garment shape. With dramatic designs and her own distinctive look, Rhodes paved the way for fashion as theatre and entertainment. Her illustrious career has seen her dress international stars including Freddie Mercury, Diana Ross and Barbara Streisand, and British Royalty, most notably, Princess Diana and Princess Anne.

Originally marked as creating designs that were ‘too extreme’, in the early 70s Rhodes left England to try and break the American market. Within a few weeks of arriving in New York she met Diana Vreeland who debuted Rhodes’ ‘Knitted Circle’ collection on Natalie Wood in American Vogue. The rest is history…

A pioneer of the British and international fashion scene since the late 60s, Rhodes’ career has seen her produce over five decades of fashion collections and more recently focus on strategic collaborations with fashion and lifestyle brands such as IKEA of Sweden, Happy Socks and Poppy Lissiman. In 2003, she founded London’s Fashion and Textile Museum, which to this day showcases some of the best in fashion and textile design.

More recently, in 2020, she formed the Zandra Rhodes Foundation, a charity that ensures future generations of designers, artists, researchers, students and educators are able to study her life and designs, with an emphasis on her methods and techniques. Dating from the mid 1960s to the current day, the Foundation is working to catalogue her six thousand garments, printed textiles, drawings, accessories, fashion films, kodatraces, silk screens, press cuttings, personal memorabilia and collected artworks. A central collection will stay with the Foundation and the remaining material will be donated to permanent collections of major museums across the world, including the Fashion and Textile Museum, the Victoria and Albert Museum, and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.


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A LIVING PRINT LEGEND 

Born on September 19 in Chatham, England, Zandra Rhodes learned about fashion early. Her mother had worked as a dressmaker in Parisian couture houses, and encouraged her daughter’s forays into art and fashion.

Rhodes specialized in printed textile design while studying at the Royal College of Art in London. Traditional British manufacturers deemed her rule-breaking bold prints and colors to be too unconventional. She opened a shop with her partner Sylvia Ayton, called Fulham Road Clothes, and started making dresses from her own printed fabric designs. The shop was only open for a year, but Rhodes has continued to create one-of-a-kind pieces as well as collections for the past 50 years.

After a feature by Diana Vreeland in American Vogue, her collection was sold in Bendel’s, Neiman’s, Saks and Fortnum & Mason in London.

She became known as the “Princess of Punk” with her groundbreaking pink and black jersey collection adorned with holes and beaded safety pins in 1977 and dressed none less than Princess Diana, Freddie Mercury and Diana Ross. Her collections were often built around her unconventional and exuberantly colored prints, especially her hand-screened prints.

I was proud to be a textile designer, and I did not feel I was inferior to a painter or a sculptor. It was my metier.
— Zandra Rhodes

She founded the Fashion and Textile Museum in Bermondsey in 1996 to celebrate British garment design, in particular an astounding archive of her own work. Today she lives in an eclectic apartment above the museum.

The Princess of Punk, the Queen of Color…in addition to her nicknames, Rhodes was honored on 2014 with the tile Dame, an honorific title equivalent to that of Knight. In a ceremony at Buckingham Palace, she was invested as a Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire by Princess Anne, who had worn a Zandra Rhodes dress for her official engagement photo 41 years earlier.

Rhodes was diagnosed with cancer at the start of the pandemic, but used the experience as impetus to pull her life together. Along with an updated will and DRN orders, she has launched multiple licensed collections in the past three years, highlighting her continued creative flow.

Swedish megabrand IKEA launched a 26-piece homeware collection in 2021, aimed at bringing joyful color to the average consumer. An eye-catching bed based on a pattern from the 1970’s was the result of a collab with Savoir Beds. Wallcovering was a natural extension, and a large collection with Rebel Walls is a perfect vehicle for Rhodes’ fabulously scaled and vibrant prints. Spring of 2022 saw a project with iconic British silk mill Gainsborough: two stunning patterns entitled Fabulous Frills and O-Gee Whizz, names that speak of her continued enthusiasm for her work.

Savoir x Zandra Rhodes

Above: Zandra Rhodes for Gainsborough

Below: Zandra Rhodes for Rebel Walls

Living as she designs, in full dramatic color and print, down to her wild furniture, art jewelry and bright pink hair, her personal mantra is "Always be made up — and wear jewellery!"

Congratulations on more than 50 years of pushing the boundaries!




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LET IT GO

Her colourful career has spanned more than five decades. Now the designer is looking to her legacy

When you’re given six months to live, you get things done. In 2020 British fashion designer Zandra Rhodes was told by her doctor that she faced terminal cancer. She kept the news from all but her closest circle — “I didn’t want anyone to think I couldn’t work!” — while also putting her affairs in order. For Rhodes, who launched her fashion career in the late 1960s and is an indisputable national treasure, this involved making plans for 6,000 garments from decades of runway shows.

Five years on, in remission and with an energy that would be remarkable for any 84-year-old, she has established a foundation to preserve her legacy and catalogued the bulk of those garments.

And on June 17, 92 lots, including a chiffon dress from the 1985 “India Revisited” collection worn by Diana, Princess of Wales (low estimate £10,000), go on sale at Kerry Taylor Auctions in London. It’s the start of a second act for the archive, as it makes its way into the permanent collections of major international institutions, while further sales are planned to benefit the foundation.

Zandra Rhodes and Piers Atkinson, head of the new foundation, with just some of the pieces from the archive © mco@markcoflaherty.com

“When Zandra had her diagnosis, we moved really fast,” says milliner Piers Atkinson, a long-term friend of Rhodes who is now head of the foundation and responsible for archiving. “We set up a mini-studio, hung up each garment, shot it front and back, numbered and logged it. There are 80 trunks. When one is done, we put a red cross on it. It’s been amazing to observe how the aesthetic adapted to each era. Some things I’d heard about but never seen. There was punk in the 1970s, with the hand-dyed beads on safety pins, and a more angular look in the ’80s.”

Garments, sketches and swatches are currently coming and going as the foundation develops partnerships with De Montfort University in Leicester, the University for the Creative Arts in south-east England and the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum in New York. “We had a trunk back from Newham College that had been in storage on campus for a long time, and moths had got to it,” says Atkinson. Rhodes, sanguine, wasn’t fussed: “Those weren’t a great loss.”

The Zandra Rhodes archive has seen some jeopardy, such as when the designer’s old storage unit flooded in 1995. It was a low point in her career. Helmut Lang and Jil Sander were by then the most influential names in an industry sold on minimalism. McQueen’s radical darkness was incoming; romance was out. “It was the era of the little black dress,” says Rhodes. “So, I moved into creating costume for operas.”

For all its twists and turns, going in and out of fashion, the Zandra Rhodes aesthetic has always been light, bright and bohemian. Think Donna Summer in a dress first seen in the 1973 Lily and Shell at the Savoy collection on the cover of her 1977 Once Upon a Time album. “That’s a style still made to order today,” says Atkinson. The studio remains very much active, with licensing and one-offs. Atkinson used archive fabric for a hat for Chappell Roan to wear to the Grammys this year, while vintage was pulled from the trunks for Sarah Jessica Parker to wear in the new season of And Just Like That, just as she did in Sex and the City back in 2003.

The archive contains sketches and design ideas . . .  © mco@markcoflaherty.com
. . . as well as fabrics and patterns © mco@markcoflaherty.com


The Rhodes journey has been defined by her graphics. She calls herself “a print maker who couldn’t get a job as one”, and the storage below her penthouse in Bermondsey, south-east London, above the Fashion and Textile Museum (now part of Newham College) that she inaugurated in 2003, houses hundreds of silkscreens and thousands of line drawings. “I’ve always sketched, everywhere I travel,” she says. “That’s the starting point. Then there’s a textile design on paper, a screen, and then we handprint from it. Then, often, we cut around the shapes in the print to create the shape of a sleeve and neck.”

It would be impossible for Rhodes to pick a favourite print or collection, but if pushed, it might be the work she created on her first trip to Australia in 1971, when she sketched the landscape around Uluru. “There was no one there in those days,” she says. “It was truly wild. The prints came from my sketches of shrubs and spinifex grass. I created toile de Jouy-style scenes on felt and chiffon. Those were the dresses that were worn by Jackie Kennedy and Lauren Bacall. I’ve given screens, textile designs and related garments to the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne and Powerhouse in Sydney, because the country was so inspirational to me.”

Rhodes’s image and personality have often eclipsed her work. But the designs have frequently been just as radical. When she went to see Diana Vreeland at US Vogue in 1969, the editor told her: “You are an idea-ist who knows how to execute things. You have a great sense of colour. These are wearable dreams.” She turned down offers of becoming an in-house print designer for both Oscar de la Renta and Yves Saint Laurent when they refused to add her name alongside theirs on garments.

Atkinson and Rhodes are preparing to send parts of the archive to the V&A in London and the Harris Museum in Preston, and are working on a project for Christie’s. “We are also going to my friend Andrew Logan’s museum in Wales soon to pick up 500 rolls of my printed chiffon fabric,” says the designer, who was made a Dame in 2015. “We’d really love other people to use some of the old fabric,” says Rhodes. “We see brands copy what we’ve done, and that’s interns taking things from Pinterest rather than doing any research. I’d like to see someone like John Galliano or Marc Jacobs use the material to create something new. Which is really what the foundation is about — preserving methodology and inspiring future generations.”

 

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COLLABORATIONS

Zandra brings her pop-art prints to luxury swim brand Oceanus for Summer 2025


Zandra brings her pop-art prints to luxury swim brand Oceanus for Summer 2025
Zandra has partnered with luxury swim and resortwear brand Oceanus for a high summer 2025 collection.

Hannah Attalah, Founder of Oceanus worked collaboratively with Zandra to identify Zandra motifs that translate seamlessly onto beaded swim styles. The duo settled on three key design themes derived from Zandra’s psychedelic 60’s and 70’s archive ‘Seashells’ (1972), ‘Explosions’ (1964) and ‘Flower Power’ (1965) prints. This is the first time Zandra has explored beading since her infamous beaded collections of the 1980’s and the prints have been reworked exclusively for this partnership. The high summer collection encompasses a mix of bikinis, one-piece swimsuits and mini dresses in signature feel-good Oceanus silhouettes, prices start from £220 for a two piece bikini. Printed kaftans with the Seashell motifs will be released later in September 2025.

“This marks the first time we have explored luxury swimwear as a brand and I am so honoured to be doing it with the fantastic Oceanus. The exquisite beading and quality of this collection is second to none. I am incredibly proud of the outcome. Seeing my archive prints reimagined and brought to life in Oceanus’ shimmering beadwork has filled me with immense joy.” says Zandra.

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Celia B and Zandra Rhodes collaborate on a High Summer 2024 RTW collection

Summer 2024 sees the launch of Celia B x Zandra Rhodes. A 34-piece collection of colourful, joyful and playful styles. Celia and Zandra have merged their talent, love of print and colour to create a sensational high summer collection.

The duo carefully chose some of Zandra’s most iconic archive prints, from charming daisy prints to the unmistakable Button Flower. All characteristic of her signature style. These, combined with Celia’s playful ruffles and exagge- rated silhouettes made for powerful statement pieces, easy to wear with flatte- ring patterns to enhance the female body.

Celia and Zandra explore a range of materials, within this collection we see cotton, linen, sequins and handmade crochets. The use of recycled organic cottons is a conscious choice aligned with both the designer’s commitments to sustainability and fashion that not only looks good but respects the planet.

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Zandra joins John Fluevog for a second collaboration..

Journey to a world of whimsy with our brand new capsule collection with John Fluevog! This collaboration features seven playful pieces, including the debut of John’s Soul Speed sneaker family as well as some Fluevog-firsts in accessories. 

Launched at Flummunity Fest 2023 in Toronto which brought together Fluevog fans from all ends of Northern America. Zandra and John stay groovy in this collection which features archive Zandra prints such as ‘Mr Man’ from the 1960’s plus Zandra’s famous ‘Wiggle’.

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Introducing the hottest collaboration of the summer..

Zandra has joined forces with global accessories brand Poppy Lissiman to bring you an exclusive capsule collection of playful, high-fashion inspired eyewear and bags. Available now exclusively through www.poppylissiman.com.

A one year work-in-progress, Zandra and Poppy began collaborating in London in summer 2022 after several months of communicating online. This exclusive collection of sunglasses and bags features some of Zandra’s most iconic motifs reimagined in the fresh, young world of Poppy Lissiman.

Together with Zandra, Poppy delved into the designer’s 55 year archive and selected some of her most famous motifs, adapting them into the physical form and shape of the accessories. Four sunglass styles make-up the eyewear side of the collection and include accentuated forms of Zandra-esque shapes such as the Wiggle, Floating Flowers, Square Spiral (as seen on the Zan) and Zig Zag. Available across a selection of colourways and effects.

Two showstopping bag designs are featured in the collection. Poppy has incorporated Zandra’s ‘Geo Sparkle’ prints onto her bestselling ‘Lio’ silhouette using a screen-printing technique that has been used by Zandra since the mid-60’s and is a part of the Zandra Rhodes brand DNA.

The collaboration also features an exclusive new bag shape; the Frill Bag. Inspired by Zandra’s use of romantic pleating; a frill detail is a recurring signature in Zandra Rhodes design, whether that be in the form of trompe l’oeil or in real life. The Geo Sparkle tote and the Frill Bag are both available across three wearable colourways.

“Poppy speaks to the youth of today. What she has done is create a magnetic and engaging brand and sold it directly to her customer which gives her such a deep understanding of the Poppy Lissiman wearer. We noticed synergies with the use of colour and print in our work as soon as we met and I think this is evident in the outcome of this incredible collection!” says Zandra.


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Introducing.. Wallis x Zandra Rhodes

Introducing Zandra Rhodes x Friends of Wallis. In celebration of Wallis’ mammoth 100 year anniversary this year, the Zandra Rhodes brand has partnered with the UK high street heavyweight to bring you this limited-edition collection. Showcasing bright and bold designs true to Zandra’s style and incorporating some of Zandra’s best loved dress shapes and prints such as the Field of Lilies Summer Dress and Lace Mountain Kaftan. 


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A Second Date With An ICON..

In 2021 Zandra graced us with a unique gift and partnered with joyful Swedish brand, Happy Socks on an exclusive collaboration. Back by popular demand, please welcome ‘The Lipstick’ capsule collection, launching in April 2023. 

Focusing on what is arguably one of Zandra’s most iconic prints ‘The Lipstick’, which draws inspiration from pop-art and was originally designed in 1967. ‘The Lipstick’ then went on to become a staple print sold on garments in Zandra’s first store with Sylvia Ayton ‘The Fulham Road Clothes Shop.’

The print has been on everyones lips since the 1960’s and has featured more recently in Zandra’s collection with Valentino, on Oscar’s gala dresses and at modern art exhibitions. Now it’s time for it to get on everyones feet too!

Zandra Rhodes x Happy Socks ‘The Lipstick’ collection consists of two special styles, available as pairs or in a gift set


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Lola and Veranda x Zandra Rhodes

Introducing a design collaboration between ethical bedding subscription company Lola and Veranda and Zandra Rhodes.

A first of its kind, Lola and Veranda work with a fully circular approach to soft furnishings in the bedroom and consider the production and lifespan of your bedsheets.

Offering a subscription service similar to entertainment subscriptions we use on a day-to-day basis. Instead, for a monthly fee you receive luxury, designer bedding which gets swapped, recycled and changed every 6 months.

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Zandra Stars as Guest Judge on BBC’s Glow Up for Comic Relief

 

We are thrilled to share our special project with BBC Three’s Glow Up and Comic Relief’s Red Nose Day for March 2022.

Zandra joined make-up heavyweights Val Garland and Dom Skinner on a special journey to find the Celebrity Glow Up Champion of the World!

Roman Kemp, Snoochie Shy, The Vivienne, Nikki Lily, and Lady Leshurr battled it out against one another to win the crown.

Zandra joined Maya Jama, the imitable photographer Rankin and legendary hairdresser Sam McKnight, where she helped set the brief for the budding celebrity artists whilst they got models ready for a Zandra Rhodes archive fashion show. Our historical garments were styled with Comic Relief t-shirts designed by upcoming artists.

Featured on the Zandra Rhodes x Glow Up catwalk were the iconic Leomie Anderson, Drag Race royalty A’Whora, YouTube sensation Nella Rose and a cherry-picked selection of fabulous models and influencers.


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Gainsborough x Zandra Rhodes

Launching Spring 2022, ‘The Britannia Collection’ is an exciting new collaboration between two of Britain’s most iconic design names; silk weaving house Gainsborough and legendary fashion designer Dame Zandra Rhodes. Skilfully composed and curated, the collection showcases a fusion of two distinct yet complementary aesthetics: the refined grandeur of Gainsborough’s exquisite designs alongside the bold, liberated style that characterises Zandra’s work.

Featuring two exuberant fabrics, O-Gee Whizz and Fabulous Frills, ‘The Britannia Collection’ is woven using traditional weaving practices, on heritage looms at Gainsborough’s historic mill in Suffolk. Both designs incorporate Zandra’s signature style of free-flowing patterns and prints, as well as her use of bold, captivating colours.

Having presented a series of initial hand painted designs, developed especially for Gainsborough, Zandra worked in close partnership with the team, delving into Gainsborough’s glorious design archive and exploring intricate production processes, eventually arriving at the perfect sympatico designs for the collection.

As a result, the collection captures both the craft and finery of British textile design, as well a contemporary decorative style perfectly suited to today’s interiors.

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Take a look into the creative process and inspiration behind Rebel Walls’ latest collaboration with the fabulous fashion designer and Queen of Colour, Zandra Rhodes.




“A rebel is someone who comes up with a totally new concept – something that sends shockwaves. They are not afraid to introduce something that has never been seen before. In this case it is a wall that makes a statement! It does not hide into the background – quite literally!”

Together we have created an exclusive selection of our prints and turned them into unique wall murals. Step into Zandra’s colourful world and claim your space!

View the full collection and shop now at https:/rebelwalls.com.

Textile prints included in the collection are:

AYERS ROCK

Zandra first traveled to Australia for a large publicity campaign for her textile designs for Sekers Silks and Australian Women’s Weekly. She fell in love with Australia and its countryside and people. The rock at the time was called Ayers Rock, but now it is rightfully called its indigenous name, Uluru.  

ZEBRA SKIN

Zandra’s African show made its debut at Olympia in 1981 with amazing makeup by the great Richard Sharah. The print in the collection features Zebra Skins that are mixed with swirl motifs to make exotic stripes and the skins are surrounded with Zandra’s interpretation of African explosions.

MANHATTAN

Manhattan is a magical zigzag print, celebrating the electric city of New York. 

The Manhattan print was featured the first time in the 1984. Magic Carpet Collection – chiffon dresses with gorgeous pointed hems, hand finished with glittering beads. 

FRINGED FOLLIES

Zandra loved the idea of exotic fringing that would always stay in place because it is printed! It could resemble beautiful, exotic curtains.

“Because I am a print designer I interpreted fringing into a print. It is so perfect for Rebel Walls! Exotic zigzag fringing hangs from a jewelled braid.” 

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